Santiago, Cuba

09/19/00

Note:

A casa page and map of Santiago is here ...

http://www.singletravel.com/cuba/santiago/casas/

My goal for Sept/Oct was someplace new -- I try to go to three places a year that Iíve never been too, makes for good reporting and provides excitement for me (I just love explore new places, as you all know). The rest of the time I like to return to places Iíve been too and enjoyed, and then get to know the place really well. Going to a foreign country (or even a major city) for a week or less is just scratching the surface and to really understand a destination takes time, connections and patience. That is why I plan to return to Cartagena and Hainan this year -- loved these place but so much more to know. Okay, enough, on with the report.

I had planned on Agadir, Morocco (heard some awesome stuff about this place) but kept on wavering because I couldnít find good flight connection and as I was just about to make a firm commitment a Email arrived from AA announcing their fall specials to the Caribbean -- including the Dominican Republic. Prices were 50% off ($390.00 from Lax) and I bought two tickets (one for this trip and another next month for an in-depth report of Puerta Plata). My thought was visit Boca Chica for a few days and then off to Santiago, Cuba for a week (havenít been to Cuba in two years and always wanted to see the East side).

I called Nash Travel and Marta booked me on the Aero/Caribbean flight (leaves Thur and Sunday at 3.30, cost $264.00 including tourist card) to Santiago, Cuba. I also bought a hotel voucher for a few days (Hotel San Juan) and figured after that Iíd play it by ear. Looked through our archives (it is an amazing place, if I do say so myself) and with the help of David, Brazil/Specialist and Afro2000 had all the information I needed. In fact, a University English teacher picked me up at the airport (made contact with him through Email, yes a few special university people do have Email through the campus proxy server, but no net) and I was ready. Oh, Agadir, it is still waiting in the wings :-)

Getting there:

After a few days of relaxing in Boca Chica (nothing new to report, we all have heard it a million times) Taxi Dave dropped me off 2 hours early and I started looking for the check in counter at the airport. Where was it?? Well after 30 minutes I found it (they put the sign up as you are checking in, boy, love how Domincans do things) and I waiting for Emily tours to arrive and hand me my tickets. Now, seems Nash Travel had marked down the wrong departure date (the hotel voucher was correct) and had no record of me -- here we go again. I yelled and screamed, so they called their central office, but alas, Nash travel had to paid them yet and I was ì fucked.î My only choice was to pay all over (plane was only 50% booked) and now the cost was $294.00!! I did it (hey, I wanted to go) and made a bee-line downstairs after I checked in and went to the small bank on the first level where with your credit card will give you an advance in dollars (I was now short with this unexpected charge). This is good to know that this is available, just in case.

(Iíll keep you informed to see is Nash Travel gives me the full refund).

The plane took-off an hour late (well, expected, this is part of Cubana airlines) but the 50 seat turboprop was smooth (a/c only works once you are airborne) and the two hour flight went quickly (even served lunch ). Now, arrival and customs was fairly fast (only 20 people on the plane) and they do look at EVERYTHING you have (I had to declare my laptop and warned me I better have it when I leave or else -- not sure what that meant). But, they were friendly and never asked for a hotel voucher and 45 minutes after landing was out the door. Jose (not his real name, to protect the innocent) was waiting for me with a big hug and we were off to the Hotel San Juan and then a prepared dinner for me at his house -- hey, I didnít even know this guy.

After the hotel check in, Jose showed me his building explained he owned the second level. Since he was educator at the university he had Email, but what a system. A laptop with four (4) megs of ram and the old unix telnet format (like those old bbs of yesteryear) but it worked and there were already 4 emails for me (I had my secretary forward the important stuff). Alas, he machine couldnít take forwarded messages and I had to instruct my girl to copy and paste messages for me. Landing in Cuba is sorta like a time-portal to those times when we were boys and all those gadgets were only for ìStart-Trek geeksî (ever notice how some of those old things are reality today, I was a Trecke since college days) and fantasy. Today, for us it is reality, for Cubans technology is only hearsay and fantasy.

Jose has a nice upstairs room (no lisense yet, so only good for afternoon delights) and we discussed plans to help promote some casa particulars (he would receive the reservation by Email from a web page and act like a broker to find exactly what you want (cheap to the lavish).

Now the bad news. There had just been a crack down and all the discos were closed and some police were stopping girls on the street. He saw the disappointment in my face (shit, I arrive and a crackdown, maybe they knew I was coming) and assurred me that there were still a zillion (almost eveyone, if you do it the Cuban way) girls available. I would be able to choose the quality and quantity -- well that brought out a grin and he just laughed ìHey, everyone is availableî and Santiago is the most friendliest city in Cuba -- just stop any girl and start chatting ) boy, was he right. At the moment the phone rang and a lady asked if she had received any Email and he invited her to meet us later at the park (Delores). Jesica, was a travel guide (spoke fluent English and French) and had just been layed off (low sesson, high is Nov-Feb) and was eager to practice her English. After meeting her (my type -- happy, bubbly and petite) we made plans for a dinner the following evening. After she left we sat in the park and waited for my first conquest -- Jesus, Iíve only been here three hours :-).

Santiago:

Cuba second largest city and almost a equal to Havana (about 600 mils to the East) in music, sites, history and politics. During the 1800ís the French arrived and brought with them the Africans and now mixed with the previous Spanish influence, Santiago is the most Caribbean feeling city of Cuba and also the darkest (in skin color). The city has close culture ties with Jamaica and Hatiti and so forth the great music and art. The city of maybe 500,000 has a distinct center and most everything is easily walk able. Because the city sits in a bowl surrounding by mountains it is hotter than most Cuban cities and also can rain a lot (most rain is May -Oct). The city is graceful and charming and many tree lined boulevards, parks, tile-roofed building and one feels you are in the old city of Cartagena or New Orleans.

The center area is located closest to the harbor and a grand park, called Cespedas is the focal point of the city. Here is the famous hotel ìCasa Grandeî (best place to have a drink and watch the park action) and at all hours this is a busy place. A few blocks up one of the main streets is the also (and bristling with action at all hours) is Plaza Delores, which has some nice restaurants and outside bars (good for mingling and flirting) and also the area which I picked my casa particular.

A few more minutes East of of Plaza Delores is Park Marti with the old hotel ìLibbertadî and a nice place also to view lovers or people just enjoying the balmy nights. Another 20 minutes East is the park ìFerreiroî which is a roundabout which can take you (to the left) to Hotel Las Americas (can be noisy) and Hotel Santiago (best in the city, but expensive). Also, this area is called Vista Alegreî has the most eloquent homes (and casa particulars) of Santiago (the roundabout park is a great place to set on a bench and watch all the traffic -- girls getting on buses etc.) and in between the above two hotels are some small bars with a lot of night action. Another 15 minute walk up the hill takes you to the San Juan area (where my original hotel was) and on the way you can stop at a beautiful zoo. Of course, this a very, very, long walk and I found most cabs charge a dollar or two for the drive. But, that is Santiago in a nutshell and to really see the city you MUST WALK IT, every corner has a surprise (and chicas) and the streets are clean, safe and this is the best way to really see what the city is all about -- seductive in all the senses (the women are all so beautiful).

What is interesting is Santaigo de Cuba got the ìGolden Appleî (Oscar of Toursism) as the best public tourist value and the only second city in the Americas ever to get the award -- the other ìCartagenaî and we all know a favorite city of mine. Looks like I have good taste in Latin American cities, as for the women -- you donít need luck to find a beauty in either, just a little patience (they will find you).

Transportation and Hotels:

I had booked my first two nights at Hotel San Juan (so I had a hotel voucher as I entered the country, but customs told me a registered casa particular was also fine and never asked) and was about 10 minutes ($5.00) from the airport. Taxis are always around the main parks and the major hotels. Jose said always take the Cubano taxis, for the cars are newer and have the best prices (same price as the particular taxis that barely make it around the corner). Around town I never paid more than $1.50 for a ride to the end of town (San Juan hotel to park Cespedas) and never a problem finding them.

Hotel San Juan was a great choice (nice rooms, quiet, in a park setting, large pool, good bar and cable TV) and although a hour walk to town a pleasant 15 minute walk to Park Ferreiro and watch all the beautiful chicas stand in line for a bus. Across the street is Hotel Santiago (best in town and a typical Melia hotel with all the goodies but expensive -- $90.00) and more reasonable priced Hotel Americas (same price as San Juan, about $45.00 a night with breakfast). I used Hotel San Juan as a base till I found (thanks to Jose and his motorcycle) the perfect casa particular for me -- ìCasa ìVerdeî -- a few blocks from Plaza Delores. The owner was a retired geologist and spoke perfect English, had Email and we even worked on his web page together (although had never seen the web). The price was $20.00 a night for a large, A/C room on a quiet street. No problem with chicas as long as they were over 18 and had identification. A pleasure to stay there. Izquierdo (the owner of Casa Verde) has Email and a direct line to the US, if you must call with your computer for $2.45 a minute (he is a retired professor of substance).

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I spend a day casa hunting and I saw everything from the super deluxe ($25.00 a day), to private apt (if you need total privacy and plan some heavy duty partying) to the cheapos (under $15.00) for the guy who just wants a room with a fan and a place to kick-back. Plan a day for finding the right casa, there are over 500 registered in Santiago and every tout (on every corner) and cab driver has his favorite.

Your main choices will be either city center (streets around the major parks) which can be crowded and and ìnot to privateì or East of the Hotel Santiago area, called Vista Alegre (which is the upper class residential area lined with shaded trees, and old mansions) where youíll find that very private deluxe casa (car or motorcycle recommended if you stay in this area, but very peaceful and little traffic or nosey people :-).

I soon will be adding a directory (handled by Jose, with is Email in Santiago) of my favorite casas with a full description and photos -- pick on that is just right for you and Jose will confirm it for you.

Now you could be a national hero and rent a car (easy pickings on the street) or even a motorcycle and just pick up girls as cruise the streets (as my friend Sal did the week before). The best place is the rental station at Hotel San Juan and a new car with insurance is $50.00 a day and a cycle is $20.00 a day (no insurance) but I passed this option since I was alone -- and I felt not needed to meet chicas (more on this later) and Jose had a bike to get me around quickly if needed.

Women:

They are everywhere in Santiago. The parks, streets, stores and outside bars. I got laid everyday and as I think about it, most where the unexpected encounters. I also had two normal dates (lots of heaving kissing and grouping but no real sex -- these girls took time which I didnít have) and actually where the hi-lite of my trip.

Yes, there had been a crackdown and there werenít 100ís of girls at the parks or the discos jammed packed with lookers on the prowl but it is still a blast and so easy to meet girls. One day just setting at the bar of the Casa Grande hotel I spotted a cutie in the park and after a hour of flirting (and help from Jose) had a date for the next evening. We had dinner and drinks and lots of kissing and touching (unbelievable body) and departed that evening as good friends (she turned down $5.00 for cabs etc.). I also had a very pleasant dinner with Jessica (tour guide at one of the hotels) where we spoke about everything (spoke perfect English) including the Jineteras situation and politics of both countries. Another time, on my sightseeing of the area, I meet Janet and her girlfriend at the Morro Castle and we gave them a ride back to town and in twenty minutes were already holding hands doing some heavy petting -- and these were the girls I didnít sleep with (will Janet changed her mind the next night :-).

Before I go on a few points. A nice girl doesnít accept money, but would be happy for you to give her a gift (may it be flowers or shopping or cab fare) and offering her money outright for sex not only is total embarresment for her but could kill your ultimate goal of seduction. Other girls will let you know what is expected -- if she allows you lead her straight to the bedroom after 5 minutes of meeting, trust me she expects some $$ (I never payed more that $20.00, and real amateurs readly accept $10.00). That is the beauty of Santiago, you never know what to expect.

Another note, all my sex was like GF sex -- meaning kissing for thirty minutes, lots of playing and touching and if I wanted (I like sleeping alone unless I really know the girl) staying the whole night. I never meet so many GREAT kissers (I think they feel it is part of the sequence) and every girl I meet followed the same routine (even the dingy street girl I did in a back room of a sleazy casa who I was to embarrassed to bring to my casa). It goes like this:

1. Holding hands into the casa
2. Lots of kissing till both get hot
3. She showers (hate this, like taking a 10 minute break in a aerobic class)
4. Start all over again, and now comes lots of BJ and the nasty stuff.
5. She sits on top and gets off.
6. Now, it is your turn to do what you like.
7. Cuddling and now you send her away (and pay) or go to sleep as lovers and as a new girlfriend.

Every girls I had sex with went through the same routine and non asked for money up-front (only two even bother to ask what they were going to get and I just decided on the fly -- none ever asked for more). Bottom line, all girls here are amateurs and sex with their boyfriend or you is the same -- except they make some extra $$.

I found my girls by just walking between the two parks (Delores and Cepedes) and taking my time. At all hours there are girls available here and sometimes you have to go and ask if you may sit next to her (trust me, sheíll be thrilled). I did this walk, sitting, flirting and hovering a few times a day and just when Iíd think this was the night I wasnít going to get laid Iíd smile at a girl on the walk back to my casa, she smile back, Iíd say hello (to let her know Iím a tourist, seems I pass as a Cuban) and say ìhable English.î In the little mini-park behind Plaza Delores there is a ice cream stand and I met two girls here -- you must get out and stroll in Santiago and sooner or later youíll find what your looking for.

I stayed away from obvious looking hookers (you know the girls with the ten inch heels) and never had problem walking a normal girl to my casa -- usually right in front of the police. If youíre one of those guys who like his lady all dressed up with the fancy clothes and jewelry to match, it might be a different story (I also stay away from Disco girls and never really bothered to see if they were really closed -- not needed here).

A great deal of time I just spend in Park Cepedes -- there are all type people (and hookers, some pretty disgusting) here, 24 hours of the day and just to sit and let the warm breezes cool you off in the early evening is a true pleasure. All types are here and since the park is well lighted, easy to view, flirt and hustle (or be hustled). I met three of my girls here (take your time, lots of losers and drugies) and the perfect way to spend an evening. I never went home empty handed and some evenings (again, over a few hour period between these two parks) talked to 10 ladies before making a final selection. It should be noted that the streets connecting these two parks are the main shopping streets of Santiago and besides being well lite are always packed with girls you bump into (on accident or purpose). Also, the streets behind the Grande hotel has a lot of the local music cafes (and are girls always waiting to be invited in) and usually bustling with action late at night. You can just stop outside and enjoy the tunes or go in and join the party and enjoy the local musicians -- a real treat!

In summary here, guess what Iím trying to say -- you donít need a car or scooter to get what you want. Just a little patience and time and it will find you. It is dam hard NOT to get laid in Santiago, just how long youíll wait it out till you find your ìperfectî lady. My saying here is NOT ìyou get what you pay forî BUT ìyou get what you wait for.î

A last point and a good game plan is to act Cuban and wink at everyone. This is the friendliest city in Cuba and the girls expect it. Everyone is hustling each other (Cuban men are on the prowl as you) and when you see something (or someone) you like, just pretend you are lost (a line the Cuban men canít use) and look helpless :-). You could easily get more than directions.

Sights:

Jose arranged a CubaTaxi (new, A/C car) for me to see the sights --cost $60.00 for six hours and off we went. The first thing you realize is that having a car how easy it would be to pick up girls -- they are waiting (and waiting) all over the place. Just a smile as you drive by and in they are -- but this was my sightseeing day and a day of rest (so I thought, no such thing in Santiago).

First stop was the Castle del Morro that is 60 meters high and was built in 1587. Quiet impressive. Here you get a great view of the harbor entrance and view of Santiago. You understand it strategic importance as no ship could enter unless passing the guns of Morro. Here we met (my guide is also a player) two ladies also viewing the castle for the first time. By the time we get them in the cab and giving them a lift back to town me and Janet are already doing some heavy duty kissing (boy, do these girls love to kiss) and is my date for tomorrow night -- this is the first tourist she had ever meet and is excited (so am I). Below youíll see some photos how my date turned out -- boy do I love this country.

Next stop is the ìLa Gran Piedraî which is a mountain range separating the valley central from the Caribbean coast. It cumulates (thirty minute drive up the steep mountain) to a giant rock where you walk another 456 steps (no run this afternoon) to the top. Here you can see all the coast and the beautiful valley underneath.

Now, some beaches and the first one (closest to the city) is called Playa Siboney and is actually a small village where you can spend the night. Not the greatest beach so we moved on to the others and stopped at Playa Largo -- again, okay but nothing special. What I liked best was old car museum on the road back to Santiago (Iím an ex-car dealer, love cars) and even saw some cars that I had (America) had never seen before. A fun stop and the old Cadillacs, Chevyís and the 57 Buick Roadmaster convert was a limited production of 150 (then, called the Skylark model) was a gem.

We got back six hours later and exhausted. I was told the best beaches with crystal clear water and white sand (Coronodo and Francis) were and hour to the west of the city (we went south). Another time. Next visit, I visit I thing Iíll take a car and do the circle drive of Santiago - Bayamo - Manzanillo - west beaches - Santiago, now that should be fun and maybe do it in three days or so.

It should be pointed out that there are tons of sites to see in Santiago (this is not a history report) and just walking around and exploring the streets is a tourist delight in itself (and I guarantee youíll meet some ladies for sweat, for it is hot and humid).

General observations:

1. Cuban women are the best kissers in the world (oops, said that before)
2. Italian guys on their motorscoters (never walk or explore) pointing, demanding and yelling should be shot (Cuban people hate them, treat the locals like 4íth class citizens in their own country).
3. Met a 80 year old retired English teacher in the park -- his pension was 117 pesos a month (about $6.00). He said a avocados cost 5 pesos and he barely survives day to day. He asked for 10 cents :-(. The countries economy for the people is the worst it is ever been. The double money economy ($$ for tourists, pesos for Cubans) has put most all decent products (including good food as fresh fruit, meat and even a beer) out of the reach for 99% of the population. The people are so intelligent, kind and warm hearted and they live with this. This is shit!
4. Stay with amateurs, forget those fancy girls with the hi-heels and classy clothes. Every girl is basically available here if you take your time and a little patience. You can get a real girlfriend and someone who actually enjoys being with you -- not a professional night lady. Just sit in the park and move around a lot and just smile -- when you see something that ìis youî you then might have to make the first move, but I was never embarrassed and some of the girls I met -- WOW!
5. Cuban capitalism -- the long line, up the street in front of the bread store with a policeman, what is that all about? Well, after asking is seems a Cuban person gets a daily allocation of one piece of bread a day for a peso and if you want more then you have to buy it in a government bread store (but these people donít keep it for themselves). It seems, after waiting in line all day, you buy a loaf for 10 pesos, then cut it up into pieces and walk around the city and sell the pieces for 5 pesos. At the end of the day you might have made a dollar. Yes, everyone knows (including the police) what you are doing and there are even professional line placement holders who sell you their place in line. If you donít own property in Cuba (like a casa particular) there are few ways to make extra money -- this is one.
6. Everyone is hurting and making a buck or two (even your Cuban friends will ask for your old shoes or pants) is what daily life in Cuba is all about. Be kind and try to understand what is going on here -- doctors are asking for your local change in the park and University English professors make $20.00 a month. Now, how about the rest of the folks who are less on the social scale -- they barely can have a healthy daily meal. Yes it is desperate time and anything and anyone goes. The trick for the people is not to be caught. Sad, but those are the facts!
7. Age or looks are irrelevant here to the girls. Your heart (and sometimes your pocket book) is what counts. I dated two 18 year olds and they felt like real girlfriends (yes, I know this is fantasy island). Some girls just want some chocolates from the dollar stores, some wanted nada, some a friend in the U.S and some wanted $$ -- youíll will meet all.
8. A good girl (even though she sleeps with you in two hours of meeting you) will be insulted by money offers -- take her shopping or buy her a real dinner or use your imagination. Sex is part of life in Cuba, as we learn how to drive, the girls learn how to please -- they are all experts and sex is part of their daily routine. Jose, who had his own casa and is 38, got layed everyday while I was there by a new girl (just a little music, rum and sweet talk) and he never payed or even a gift -- it is all part of the Cuban ritual of flirting, meeting, small talk and then love (well, at least for that night). Heíd talk to (or flirt with his eyes) at every (every) girl he liked (be it the store, street, from his motorbike, or even a housing complex). Weíd get put in jail at home for the daily (hourly) advances he made on the local females but THEY EXPECT AND CRAVE IT! Yes, a real culture difference here and you need to understand it to really appreciate what is going on around you -- what fun :-)

Conclusion:

Would I come back -- in a flash and Iím already planning a next trip. Iíve never seen (well, maybe Cartagena) a city so easy to meet beautiful women and every time I take a walk I have a date -- amazing. The city is much slower pace than Havana (or even Cienfuegos) and at night the streets can be dark and lonely, but I always felt safe and always got those ìpssssstttî sounds from a balcony trying to get my attention -- these were the real amateurs. The touts (especially in the parks) can be annoying and the food sucks (eat at your casa particular) and the one thing I missed was no Malecon or decent beach nearby. I also think this is the perfect base camp for exploring the other cities of East Cuba and Santiago city is truly special -- Oh, do I mention the beautiful girls :-)

Santiago casas and map